We were tempted to board until we contemplated the depth of the rust in the deck...
Look at the size of these ropes... with Kristy's booted foot for comparison.
Check the name on the dinghy:
We found Krauch's, where they smoke salmon and other seafood. Here, you can buy a small package of the best smoked salmon you've ever had for $5, in just the right amount for a picnic lunch at the south Nova Scotia shore.
We also made some miso soup, and added to it some dehydrated veggies and buckwheat noodles. It would have been better with a bouillon cube or two to add some weight to the broth. Still, w ate right from the pot.
Then we took a walk on the beach at lowest tide.
As we were packing up from our park picnic, Kenny discovered that he was completely out of rear brake pad and was in dire need of a replacement set. Of course, it can be difficult to track down a cycle shop when your phones can only do international roaming at god knows what rates (I still haven't had the courage to check my cellphone account...). We were pretty close to Halifax, though, and were lucky enough to come across RPM Cycle in Dartmouth just outside Halifax, a mere hour before closing time. Better yet, they had one set of brake pads to fit Kenny's bike... whew. Then, they invited us to pull our bikes around back so Kenny could swap his pads. That was really nice... top notch shop.
They had a few police motorbikes in for service:
A water crossing into Halifax, the home of the only Starbucks in Nova Scotia!
As we were heading into Peggy's Cove, night began to fall. We'd really hoped to see the lighthouse in the daytime, but I have to admit that at night the lighthouse is especially striking.
We took lots of photos:
Then we found the downside of the highway in southern Nova Scotia; unlike the US, there is not a gas station and five hotels at every exit. As it got to be 10 or 11PM, we found the gas stations were closing, and when we followed a 'hotel' sign, it turned out to be 10 or 15 km to a hotel with no vacancy, or a B&B -- and it was a bit late to knock on someone's door looking for a room.
Finally, we lucked into Bridgewater, and found a hotel whose entryway lights were blazing... very welcome as it was approaching midnight and we were both a bit frazzled.
The Fairview Inn, the oldest operating inn in Nova Scotia... quite a find for two weary travelers.
This place was great; the rate wasn't outrageous, the rooms were pristine, the entire inn has a wonderful romantic ambiance, and the dining room served a great breakfast the next morning. When we return to Nova Scotia I think we'll make it a point to stay there again.
On the morning of the 18th, we had an easy hop to Yarmouth and the fastcat to Portland, Maine.
We met a KLR rider who was returning to NY after a week of touring the island solo.
The Cat's arrival in Yarmouth was very late. We were told that there had been a bomb threat in Portland, and the ship had to be searched. When it docked and began to unload its passengers, a flotilla of bikes and riders disembarked, ready for a Nova Scotia weekend adventure no doubt.
Then it was our turn to board.
This ferry was the swankest of all four ferries we took on this trip, it even had a casino and a gift shop.
The wake this ship throws is also very different from the other ferries.
Not to mention the cruising speed... that's 71 km/h.
Nevertheless, because the Cat got a late start, we arriven in Portland, Maine, and stopped at the first hotel we could find, never mind that it was in a pretty sketchy neighborhood and the room smelled a little... off.
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